Friday, 27 May 2022

The Kitbashes: Ork Trukks (Episode IV)

Alrighty.  Time to show off some completed builds and what little bit of painting I've managed to get done.  Here we have a Goff nob being driven into battle with a handful of his gang.

Silk watches as I work on a trukk that has a looted Imperial cabin.  I had to cut the cabin in half and widen it a wee bit to fit the Orks.

Apparently the driver had the roof cut off so that he could let his topknot fly free.

Another trukk.  The gas tank is from the same kit as the above cabin, a 1/35 Chinese Jiefang CA-30 military truck.  The front fenders and trakks are from the Ork battlewagon kit.

And of course, the bumper and glyph plate are magnetized.

The harpoon is an old GorkaMorka bit.  I replaced the head with one from an Orc boar boy.

Ready for priming.

Silk inspects the priming job.  

It's the scoop that does it for me.

I think that the tracked version looks pretty good.

If I remember right, I used a piece of window screen for the grill.  Which reminds me, I have an entire roll of the stuff stashed away in a box somewhere.  I should see if I can find it as it would be useful for a couple of my current projects.

A good view of the gunner.  My thinking behind magnetizing his arm and putting him on a base was so that in a game of GorkaMorka, if his big gun or the trukk was disabled, he could go on foot and I could swap out his arm with one armed with a pistol.

Slow start to the painting process.

Different trukk, same bed.

Magnetic glyph plate and a boarding plank.

Speaking of boarding planks, I should mention that I made them magnetic as well.  It takes a total of eight(!) magnets to mount one of these.

So... is the middle one a bumper like the one on the right, or a reinforced ram like the one on the left?

I scratch-built a little shelf to hold some gas cans.

A shot of the trukk with the bed off.

I don't remember where these exhausts are from.  The Deff Dread kit maybe?

If I remember right, the headlights are from the Space Marine Rhino kit with a bit of round tube added.

Here you can actually see the layering of sheets for the bed.

I used the underside of a bed to try out the Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust combination.

It gives a pretty good look with minimal effort.

You can see where I gave it a pretty heavy coat of Typhus Corrosion.

After I painted some of the individual panels, I slapped on some more Typhus Corrosion for good measure.

Some drybrushing and a few washes.

Top it off with a liberal dusting of weathering powders, and it's nice and grungy.

Another bed.  After painting and weathering, it's difficult to see where the kit bed ends and the scratch-built stuff begins.

And another bed.

Silk watching over the painting process.

I like the different textures that you can get with Typhus Corrosion.  I also like how the one painted panel came out.

I like to experiment.  I wanted to see if I could replicate this look.

At this stage it just looks weird, and I was thinking 'what the hell and I doing?'

Some more work and it was starting to look better.

I initially painted the entire panel with either Lightning Bolt Blue or Ultramarine Blue (I don't remember which) and then put on spots of Electric Blue (I own some really old paints). Then in the center of each of the light blue spots, I put on Typhus Corrosion and brushed on Ryza Rust over that.

The rivets and streaks on the treadplate were done with the Macharius Solar Orange (I think). Then I had at it with some washes. I think at first I only used either the Brown or Armour washes (or both).  But eventually I ended up trying all the washes. My technique pretty much consists of slapping random stuff on until I stumble across a look that I like.

As for the end result, I think I overdid the washes on the blue part, although it looks good and grimy now. I like how the long top panel came out, and the right panel looks really corroded. 

I wanted to try to replicate this look:

I don't remember the exact steps, but the white was a result of pooling white paint thinned to a wash, letting it dry a little, then blotting up the rest.  The yellow was originally done the same way, but it didn't look right, so I brushed on more.

It still wasn't right, so I washed over the whole thing with a variety of washes (although I think Sepia was the one I used most). 

I allowed it to mix and pool in some areas and blotted it up in others. I like the end result, but I really have no idea how I got there.

This was another experiment.  I painted this panel neutral grey, and then some yellow. I really don't know what I did for the yellow to end up looking like it did, but it was stupidly hot that day and it was drying pretty quickly. 

Anyway, then I added some really thinned white, which I allowed to pool, dry a bit, then blotted up the rest. I didn't get the same neat effect as above (and forgot to take a picture of that step), so I covered most of it up with Typhus Corrosion.

I added a couple of dabs on the yellow and drybrushed on some Ryza Rust and painted the skid plate.

I thought I'd try something different and painted on some Vallejo Crackle Medium on the yellow paint. After some time it *looked* dry and hadn't cracked, so I decided to give it a wash with some Seraphim Sepia. Apparently it wasn't completely dry and turned into a gummy mess. But it looked interesting, so I left it. The panel on the right was lightly brushed with Typhus Corrosion and then I added several different washes, not even waiting for the first layer to dry before adding a different colour. 

After things dried, I added some orange wash to some rivets and drybrushed with Pig Iron and dusted on some grey weathering chalk.  As you can see, I don't really have a plan or a consistent method. Usually I keep adding stuff until I get to "meh, good enough", but sometimes I have a happy accident that turns out rather cool.

Another example of Typhus Corrosion & Ryza Rust with some washes & drybrushing.

It could be better, but it's reached the 'meh, good enough' stage.

Silk giving me the hairy eyeball because it's feeding time.

Starting to come together.

I'm painting these to be mostly neutral colours and to use the clan-specific glyph plates to indicate ownership.  The fluff reason is that on the world that I'm working on to be the setting for my games of GorkaMorka and Necromunda (and future stories), paint squigs are relatively rare.  So most Ork vehicles are either unpainted (and rusty) or only have the paint that was originally on them (for looted bits).  Only wealthy Orks can afford to paint an entire vehicle.  

Most Orks will spring for the cost to paint the engine red to make it 'go fasta'.  The bottles of explosive squig juice (for thrusters) are generally painted blue.  Nobody seems to know why.

I wanted to see what the painting that I'd done so far looked like under natural light, so I took it out on the balcony for some pics.

All in all, I was fairly happy with the progress so far.

A good shot of my Deathskulls and the spear gun.

A shot of the trakk base.  I used a portion of the side walls from the battlewagon kit and just added a sheet of styrene to the top and some strips.

Deathskulls.  I was trying out some clear bases.  While I like the look of them when on vehicles, they're a real pain to attach.

Wrecking ball.

Goffs.

Deathskulls.  I'll eventually be putting up a post on how I made the dude with the stop sign.

I like the Goff clan glyph plate.  

Deathskulls.

The squig juice bottles also have a little 'Zag' lighting bolt glyph.

Oh, and I made the driver's head magnetic, so I can swap it out depending on which clan the trukk belongs to.

And finally, I like this little detail of the closed clapper on the broken stack.

And that wraps up my series on Ork trukks.  At least until I build or paint some more.
Cheers.



Wednesday, 25 May 2022

The Kitbashes: Ork Trukks (Part the Third)

If this is a complete disaster, it's because I'm attempting to write it before I'm fully caffeinated.

Today we're talking about making extended beds for the Ork trukk.  Here we have Silk monitoring the painting process.

My extended beds so far.

So far none of my beds have had the walls angled out like in the base kit.  To achieve this, I shaved down the angled sides of the bed.

I used .100" x .100" strip styrene cut to about 68mm long for the sides and one cut to 51mm long for the end.  There's a little bit of variation in the lengths as I tend to just eyeball it rather than measure, 'cause, y'know, Orks.  I built up the bed in layers of sheet styrene to get the same panel look as the bed.  It's been quite a while since I did it, but I'm fairly certain that I used a .040" thick piece for the core and .030" thick pieces for the panels on either side.

I then added on some thinner strips and sheet for additional panels and straps.

Add in some rivets.

Another example.  I sandwiched in a bit of granny grating on this one.  Notice that on the end there's a panel with a magnet in the center.  I was thinking that at some point down the road I might want to have options for dropped weapons like mines or oil slicks, or maybe a rocket booster.

For the underside, I added a couple of strips to hold the magnets, using my handy dandy template as a guide.  Note that the two strips in the middle of the template sit on either side of the existing strip.

And then use the template to drill the magnet holes.

Holes drilled.  Make sure you get the polarity right when putting in the magnets because it's a real pain fixing it if you don't.  Learn from my fail.

The underside of another bed before I added the strip next to the thin one on the right.

Hopefully the magnets all line up.  This is one part where you do actually want to measure accurately and not just eyeball it.

For the side panels I used scraps, the actual kit side walls, and some bits from the Ork battlewagon.

Random and ramshackle.

One of the things that I did was to have a nice flat spot on the outside of the walls so I could add magnetized glyph plates.

I made some clan glyph plates.  I need to make some more.

And of course, I have a template for drilling the magnet holes.

A magnetized glyph plate.

I also added magnets to the inside of the wall.

Why, you ask?  So I could add moar weapon mounts.

For things like the wrecking ball.

And again, I got a little carried away with the magnets.

Fur-covered wrecking ball.

And that's probably enough for now.  In the next post I'll have some pics of the completed trukks and some of what little bit of painting I've actually managed to do.